Cloudbuster Construction Details The following was written by Don Croft (the inventor) and archived by whale.to Definition of a contrail A contrail occurs when a plane travels at a high altitude (about30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air into a water vapour or ice crystals through jet engines…
The Orgonite Cloudbuster (or chembuster): Construction details and observations - Orgone and Orgonite - Orgones Discussion Forums Orgones Discussion Forums The Orgonite Cloudbuster (or chembuster): Construction details and observations Adam (Orgones) November 7, 2018, 12:00am #1 Cloudbuster Construction Details The following was written by Don Croft (the inventor) and archived by whale.to Definition of a contrail A contrail occurs when a plane travels at a high altitude (about30,000 ft. or more) and compresses the air into a water vapour or ice crystals through jet engines or the wing tips pushing through the air. This trail disappears after anywhere from a few seconds to 15 minutes, as the water vapour evaporates. Definition of a chemtrail The term “chemtrail” is a relatively new word, which appeared in the last few years along with the appearance of chemtrails. A chemtrail is very different from a contrail. At first a chemtrail might look a bit like a contrail. However, instead of disappearing like a contrail does, a chemtrail just keeps spreading out and forming a hazy cloud bankout and forming a hazy cloud bank. These trails traverse the whole sky and stay for up to around five or even eight hours. They have been known to turn what was originally a clear blue sky into a grey haze. (Note: As of Nov2001 there are already several dozen Chembusters in seven countries, so if you see chemtrails that don’t last anywhere near this long, there may already be a Chembuster in the area). It is believed chemtrails are composed at least in part by an oil based substance of unknown content that is actually being sprayed from jets on populated areas. It has also been found that some chemtrails contain red blood cells, aluminum, mycoplasma, viruses and other unknown biological components. There are many reports of increased diseases, especially respiratory ailments, in areas where there are chemtrails. capture.18-11-2018 22.25.48.jpg810×604 105 KB Chemtrails are often seen to be sprayed by white planes with no markings. Sometimes you will see these planes give off no contrail at all, and immediately after the same kind of plane in the same area will start to leave a thick chemtrail. At other times, distinct short gaps in chemtrails have been photographed, as though the plane ran out of chemicals and then had to start spraying with a new supply. History of the Cloudbuster The Wilhelm Reich Cloudbuster was well known for its ability to create rain. But a problem existed with its continued use, in that the deadly orgone energy that it absorbed could in fact hurt the operator if it was not correctly “drained off”. This “draining off” of deadly orgone energy was accomplished by: Connecting the Cloudbuster to a body of running water (difficult) or Connecting the Cloudbuster output to an orgone accumulator. However, the orgone accumulator would soon become saturated with the deadly orgone energy which in turn caused more problems for the operator. So the Cloudbuster, as good a technology as it is, has lain dormant for many years. The Cloudbuster Re-Invented By utilizing the research of Wilhelm Reich, we have created a cheap, portable and easy-to-build device that consistently destroys Chemtrails and heals the atmosphere. The Chembuster is the answer to these ongoing attacks. Unlike the original Cloudbuster, the CB changes the deadly orgone energy to good orgone energy and does NOT become saturated or dangerous to the operator. It is human nature to sit on the sidelines and think that one person cannot change the things that are happening to our country. A properly constructed CB unit should be able to greatly reduce the effects of chemtrails for about 45 miles in all directions (90 mile diameter) from the unit. CLOUDBUSTER DIRECTIONS Carol and I got these specs by dowsing, and they work very, very well, though may not be the last word, if you get my drift. Let us know if you can successfully modify it. BUCKET: Base: 9" in dia., 9" deep. I use two-gallon plastic buckets from the Home Depot paint department, but two-gallon food buckets, available from restaurants, or two-gallon spackle buckets from drywall contractors are fine. I leave the buckets on, as the handles make it easier to move the finished cloudbuster. COPPER PIPES: Six standard 1" copper pipes, 6’ long, open at one end, the capped ends submerged to within an inch or so of the bottom of the bucket before casting. For portability and shipping, you can use 12” sections of pipe in the base, adding five-foot lengths by putting couplers between the 12” and five-foot pieces. You won’t need to buy as much copper pipe this way, too. CRYSTALS: I glued a double-terminated quartz crystal, about 2" long, into a .75” section of garden hose, and one of these devices is glued in turn inside each of the six copper end caps, pointing in the same direction as the pipe will be after the cap is glued on. I use ‘Goop’ glue. I taped around the cap where it joined the pipe to prevent resin from leaking into the cap during casting. [2008] Single terminated work fine. METAL PARTICLES: Get some metal particles from a machine shop, recycling yard or a place where they saw a lot of aluminum (sign shops and aluminum fabrication shops are good places to look). I use aluminum for weight considerations, but ANY metal will do. Very fine particles (such as filings from a key-making machine) aren’t quite as good as ones that will easily go through a window screen & slightly bigger ones are okay. There really is a wide margin of suitability! PLYWOOD: Template 1 - 3/4” exterior plywood is used to make the base for the copper endcaps/pipes. I arrange the six pipes evenly around a 2 1/2” radius circle, which makes the pipes 2 1/2” apart on centers. A flat, 1 1/4” auger bit drills a suitable hole for each end cap. Template 2 - Make another piece to fit inside the rim of the bucket. Remember to cut a section away so you can fit your fingers under it to remove it from the bucket. This piece is not part of the finished CB, just used to get the spacing for the pipes right during construction. Cut the holes in this with a 1 1/8” flat bit so that it will fit well over the six pipes. This piece will hold the pipes in position while the second batch of resin hardens. Template 3 - I make a circular plywood spacer for the top ends of the pipes, 4” radius with 1 1/8” holes on the same 2 1/2” radius circles for the pipe ends. This keeps the pipes parallel with each other and fairly rigid so you can point it at unholy things like predatory entities and City Hall image.jpg2438×3334 732 KB See here for detailed template making instructions RESIN: I use polyester resin (used to build fiberglass boats) but epoxy also works, as does envirotech resin from www.eti-usa.com (this sets up very quickly, so you need to be proficient with it). (If you are going to construct many of these units, try to purchase your resin in 5 gallon buckets over the internet, possibly from a surfboard or boat manufacturing supply company. ACE hardware for $12.95 per gallon. Home depot gets $24 per gallon for resin. On a level surface, pour an inch or so of catalyzed resin into the bottom of the bucket and stir in metal particles until the surface is uniform and flat. The ratio that seems to work is approx. one part resin to one part metal particles. Put the base wood Template 1 onto that before it hardens, so that it just touches the surface and doesn’t sink in much. Pour a half gallon of catalyzed resin into the bucket after the six pipes are set into the holes in the base template. Use the dowel to stir in handfuls of metal particles in the same ratio as before. Note that the wood Template 1 should not be pushed down to the bottom of the bucket with the resin squishing over the top. Expeditiously move the Template 2 down on to the six pipes until it is snugly within the rim of the bucket. Put the top Template 3 onto the top of the pipes and move them until the pipes are parallel. After the resin has hardened, remove the second template and set it aside. This is only used during construction, as I mentioned. You can finish off putting the resin/metal mixture in now in two stages if you want, up to within a half inch of the rim of the bucket. Now it’s finished (wait until it hardens before you shoot anything) A MONEY SAVING SUGGESTION, ALSO FOR BETTER PORTABILITY: Cut six pipes, 12" long, and put the crystals/endcaps on them for the base. Buy six joints which allow a pipe to come into them from both directions and stop at the middle. This allows you to make the rest of the pipe assembly from three pipes, 10’ long, cut in half. The finished product leaves you with only one piece of pipe, four feet long leftover. When positioning the 12" pipes for pouring the second layer of mix, temporarily tape the top ends of the 12" pipes so no metal particles are dropped in them by mistake. After the mix is made, take off the tape and push the rim plywood piece down onto the pipes so that it fits into the rim of the bucket. Put the spacers, then the 5’ pipes onto the 12"base pipes, then put the third (top) plywood piece onto the tips. The pipes will look skewed, most likely, so just twist the top plywood piece around until the pipes line up parallel. As you do that, the rim plywood piece will move around. You need to do this expeditiously, though not in a hurry, so that the resin doesn’t harden before you’re done. We experimented with 5’ extensions to the pipes to increase the range. It had a strong effect on the moon and on the upper atmosphere of the planet for hundreds of miles. We also apparently shut down the weather warfare facility under Homestead Air Force Base while we were in the Keys by leaving the extended cloudbuster pointing at the dead orgone field above it for a week. We found that we don’t need to point it in any particular direction in order to clear the atmosphere of bad orgone, and the longer it’s left standing, the nicer it feels for a longer distance from the cloudbuster (many miles). We just stand it on its bottom, pointing straight up. We did once eliminate a belt of smog which was just off the coast by aiming at it for a few minutes, so direction can be a factor. We also severely alarmed the operators of a ufo that was in the vicinity. It instantaneously shot out into space, where it remained in the same position relative to us, so the basic 6’ long pipe configuration apparently only affects the atmosphere. Do be discriminating which UFO’s you aim at, though. If they are not predatory and you make them mad, they may pay you back by messing with your carburetor or something, as they did to us once. The really advanced ones are not susceptible to the cloudbuster, as they apparently don’t need a deadly orgone field to operate. Our take is that all but these use nuclear fusion or some other noxious, old-paradigm energy source. It’s open season on the B Sirian craft and other predatory ones, as far as we’re concerned. They can’t hurt you, by the way, if you aren’t afraid of them. Universal law restricts them more than it does us. We can pay later for breaking it, but they are just unable to break it, apparently. Cloudbusters destroy chemtrails consistently. It may take a few days for your cloudbuster to activate the environment enough to do this, but after that point the spew will disappear within seconds of leaving the UN jets and dissipated trails that drift within range of the cloudbuster will also disperse, but more slowly. The ones that are made up of solids take longer to dissipate, but we’ve found that these only make up about 10% or so of the spewing episodes. The evil intent of the UN is most apparent to me in the fact that Lucis Trust (formerly Lucifer Trust) publishes all of its official literature and dictates its philosophy. Only this belief system, which closely resembles the doctrine of the Nazi party, could condone the rampant genocide which is now being carried out by the UN. Dr. Reich’s cloudbusters were extremely dangerous when in operation since he had no orgone generator attached to them. Bad orgone does carry a charge which can quickly drain one’s life force away when it’s concentrated in one spot. It’s slightly similar to a strong positively charges static electrical field. When cloudcover is unproductive or unbalanced (too much lightning, for instance, or too much rain) the cloudbuster busts it up. We plowed a furrow through a line of artificially created thunderstorm in June, 2001. Carol said the square-shaped thunderheads were chock full of predatory ET’s, bent on mutilating animals at the time. It also stops droughts. Overall, it just balances the weather, I think it sort of mediates between the ground and the atmosphere somehow. The one in Namibia finally brought heavy rain to the desert there. It happened 9/5/01, and continued for several days. Gert, the fellow who made the cloudbuster and reported the occurrence, told me that this had simply never happened in the Namib desert before to the best of anyone’s knowledge. It’s arguably the driest region on the planet. WARNING: If you touch the pipes when they’re drawing in strong unbalanced or dead orgone and don’t put your hand on the base after that, you may experience headaches, even into the next day, as a friend of ours did recently. Mind you that our efforts, though somewhat pioneering, should be seen mainly as a springboard for further developments rather than the last word. Somebody’s starting a list for cloudbuster aficionados shortly. SUGGESTION: If you want even more rain, try putting water on top of the material in the bucket and/or hosing down the whole apparatus daily. It usually takes a couple of weeks for a new CB to acclimate to the local environment, so you may not see dramatic results with chemtrails right away, but hang in there for two or three weeks and you will begin to notice things. The more heavily laid the chemtrails in your area, the longer it takes for the CB to gear up to the task of dispersing them. The larger the CB resin/metal chip matrix, base diameter, the larger the diameter of the pipes used, the longer the length of pipes used, the more and larger crystals used, the more coils used, etc. means a more powerful punch of orgone transmutation delivered by the CB. Finished-Cloudbuster.gif480×640 154 KB image.jpg300×1195 191 KB image.jpg1152×864 306 KB capture.18-11-2018 22.33.jpg688×1272 126 KB capture.18-11-2018 22.30.10.jpg988×665 123 KB CB ploughing through chemtrails in the Midwest Classic Croft Orgonite Cloudbuster Tutorial By Cesco This tutorial is an alternative to Don’s original tutorial above. Required Materials: Six standard 1 inch (28mm in Europe) copper pipes, each 6 feet long (36 ft total.) Six 1 inch copper pipe endcaps. Six 1 inch copper pipe couplers. Pipe cutter. Six 2 inch +, Quartz Crystals. The width of these should not exceed 3/4 of an inch. One can use double or single terminated, though single terminated is recommended for those unable to define a positive and negative end of a double terminated crystal. The positive end of a single terminated crystal is 99% of the time the end with a clear point to it, in the picture below the positive end is at the top of the crystal where you can define its point easily. capture.18-11-2018 22.50.25.png529×873 254 KB Metal shavings, enough for a two gallon bucket. Aluminium, copper, brass, steel, titanium all works fine. Don’t get too small pieces, particles, see image for ideal size (can also be a bit larger.) Plywood, for the templates. 1 inch drill bit to cut the holes in the templates. Jigsaw to cut the templates. Compass for marking the templates. 2 gallon plastic bucket. 2 gallons of Polyester or Epoxy resin, cheap stuff preferred as this goes outside. Catalyst/Hardener. Measuring jug or bucket, for mixing the resin. Syringe(large) or dropper for hardener. Plastic gloves. Stirring stick and an old spoon. It is recommended that you work outside or in a well ventilated area, use a protective mask if working indoors.Cover work space with some plastic to avoid stains/mess. Step 1. Casting the crystals into the pipes. First you need to cut off a section of your pipes with a pipe cutter where the crystals will be cast. You can either measure the section that you will cut off so that it will be sticking up from the orgonite base after it has cured, this way you can disassemble your CB quite easily. Or you can measure the pipes to be cut off at a length a few inches longer than your crystals, this means that you cannot disassemble your CB unless you make another coupling point above the base. The pros with the first is that you can take your CB apart easily if you need to move it, and the pros of the latter is that it is easier to cast the crystals into the pipe. The choice is yours. After you have cut your pipe sections for casting the crystals in you can either solder or tape the endcaps on the bottom, this is to prevent leaking of resin. Packing tape usually works great, just do a good job taping it around the edge of the endcaps. Now you are ready to start. Prepare the amount of resin needed by mixing with catalyst in a jug, then mix metal shavings into the resin. Place a small amount into each pipe, scoop into it with an old spoon: capture.18-11-2018 22.55.47.jpg703×504 18.9 KB Now you need your crystal points. Place your crystal, the positive end upwards and the negative going down, into the pipe: capture.18-11-2018 22.56.54.jpg891×701 37.4 KB Then you cover the crystal points with resin/metal mix: capture.18-11-2018 22.57.07.jpg915×437 47.7 KB Leave to cure, you can start cutting your templates while you are waiting. Step 2. Making the templates. Measure the diameter of your bucket with your compass, make sure that you do this from the inside, leave 1/2 inch space to the edge. This will be the diameter of your template. Mark your piece of plywood with that diameter circle, this will be the outer diameter of the template. Then either use your drill bit or measure in half the width of your pipe (1/2 inch) and draw a second circle this size, see image below: capture.18-11-2018 22.58.47.jpg1265×845 86.6 KB Then from that circle you make a half circle with you compass through the center touching the inner circle in two points: capture.18-11-2018 22.59.32.jpg1133×822 76.6 KB Place your compass on the point where the line touches the inner circle and make another half circle: capture.18-11-2018 22.59.46.jpg1177×836 85.3 KB Then continue doing this until you have touched all the points(6 in total): capture.18-11-2018 22.59.56.jpg1160×824 91 KB capture.18-11-2018 23.00.05.jpg1229×835 99.8 KB capture.18-11-2018 23.00.15.jpg1155×838 105 KB capture.18-11-2018 23.00.25.jpg1148×837 112 KB Now you should see the above shape similar to a six petaled flower: Where each petal touches the inner circle(blue dots) is where you will drill your one inch holes: capture.18-11-2018 23.00.42.jpg1156×834 121 KB You need two templates like this, so draw another identical one. Then use your jigsaw to cut out the outer circle and then drill your holes. (Some people like to remove some of the center part of the template that goes into the bucket so thatit is filled with more orgonite, this is easily done by removing a large circle from the center of the template, this way the outer circle will still hold in place.) You should now have two wooden CB templates. Step 3. Casting the CB base. Usually a plastic bucket needs no release agent, it comes straight off after the CB is cured, if you really want to be on the safe side you can use some vegetable oil or vaseline to coat the inside of the bucket. Prepare your resin, 2 gallons worth, mix thoroughly with the required amount of catalyst. Place a small amount of metal shavings at the bottom of your bucket (inch and a half) and then cover with resin. Get your pipes with crystals in them and place them onto the bottom template, this way the template should rest… truncated (474,391 more characters in archive)