Photos by Morgen Orr Part of the Little Venice area on the Regnitz River
Just 40 miles north of Nürnberg, Germany, is the historic city of Bamberg. Situated on the Regnitz River, Bamberg is one of the rare German cities completely untouched by Allied bombing in World War II. As a result, the ancient buildings and streets give as clear a picture as anywhere in the country of the history and traditions of Germany and more specifically, Franconia.
Bamberg is the final resting place of a Pope, the only such case north of the Alps. Pope Clement II, who reigned as Pope for less than one year, was previously the Bishop of Bamberg from 1040- 1046. Clement was fatally poisoned in 1047, but due to his great love for the ancient German city, he was interred in Bamberg Cathedral, where he lies to this day.
Also unique in Bamberg is a world famous type of beer called Rauchbier or smoked beer. The original and most famous producer of this smoky, interesting brew is Schlenkerla who maintains a tavern in the middle of the oldest part of the city. The beer is made by drying malted barley over an open flame, creating the taste and smell of smoke. The Schlenkerla tavern is frequented by tourists but is also a hub for locals looking for a pint of their hometown specialty.
Michaelskirche Church and Monastery, built in the Twelfth Century, sits on one of Bamberg’s seven hills.
The city survived World War II because it was not a weapons producing or industrially based area. The Allies realized they could save at least some German relics and spared Bamberg the disastrous treatment given Nürnberg and Dresden. This foresight allows visitors a chance to see some of Germany’s oldest standing buildings.
The Bamberg Cathedral was built in 1237. The Michaelskirche Monastery was built in the twelfth century and the Old Town Hall was constructed in 1386. The Old Town Hall was actually built on a small island in the middle of the Regnitz River and features colorful exterior paintings that have survived for hundreds of years.
Bamberg is a classic Franconian city. The Little Venice area of the city borders the river and provides perfect examples of halftimber construction and classic German architecture. The city is young and alive with a university of 9,000 students spread throughout the population of only 70,000.
Churches sit on each of the seven hills of Bamberg and dramatic views of the city can be seen from each crest. Though larger cities get more publicity than Bamberg, none can match its intimacy, age, and authenticity.
Bamberg was spared because it had no military value in terms of war production. More to the west, Trier and other medieval cities were pounded by allied bombing raids and thousands of ancient structures were destroyed. I lived in West Germany in the early 60s and was greatly impressed with the restoration efforts.
I believe I have a distant relative by the last name of zwonitzer but cannot recall his first name
Bamberg was indeed bombed. My mother was born and lived in Bamberg during this time. She lives through the bombings.
How much damage does/did your mother say Bamberg suffered?
Bamberg
Although Bamberg was fortunate and escaped some of the devastation, there were incidents in the closing months of the war. Bombing ruined three of Bamberg’s numerous breweries and killed a number of people taking shelter in the Polarbären-Keller beer garden in 1945. Most of the major monuments and historical landmarks escaped damage but over 300 buildings were totally destroyed. On February 22, 1945, American pilots returning from a failed mission elsewhere randomly dumped their deadly load on Bamberg. Three 50 kg bombs killed 17 people and hit the old Redeemer Church, leaving only the tower undamaged.
My uncle, Capt. Francis G. Turton, was KIA’d in Bamberg April 5, 1945.